Archive for February, 2014

Not much driving today, just a couple of hours between Purmamarca and Salta to visit DutchBob. Purmamarca is a little tiny Andean town with a famous rock, “The Hill of 7 Colors.” It’s also a bit of a tourist trap but at least it’s a cheap one. The trinkets available here are nicer than the ones in the Atacama. I spent the morning wandering around town, and then set into seeing what was wrong with BobMobile’s broken 4-wheel drive. No burnt-out fuses, but after jiggling everything in the wiring block, it started working again. Gremlins. But BobMobile is back in 100% working order!

Hill of 7 colors

Hill of 7 colors

Then it was a ride down Ruta 9 between the provinces of Jujuy and Salta. I must say that this road, between San Sanvador de Jujuy and another town called “La Caldera” was an absolute pleasure to drive. It was one of those lane-and-a-half type roads where you have to be really careful at the switchbacks, but it took you up into the cloud forests of Jujuy where the mountains and cliffs are literally dripping with foliage, and you can smell the green in the air. It was third gear the whole way but lots of fun, with rollercoaster-like winding through the mountains.

Ruta 9

Ruta 9

Every once in a while, you’d take a sharp turn and end up in the middle of these guys.

Roadblock

Roadblock

I arrived at DutchBob’s house, cleaned some laundry, set up camp in his backyard, and was fed an excellent dinner. Hopefully hitting the road early tomorrow, through the Argentine Chaco on my way to Asuncion, Paraguay.

 

I got a late start today, mostly because I slept longer than I had wanted to. The altitude is rough. My people were bred to lug heavy stuff, like bricks/dirt/bodies, all day, at sea level, without drinking a drop of water. The thin air has given me a headache that has lasted all day, all night, and it won’t go away. It’s not debilitating but it is certainly annoying. I can walk around OK but anything more physical than that will make me feel like I have been running for a while and am starved of oxygen.

So, the day began with a hearty breakfast, a stop at the internet cafe to buy and print out my obligatory Argentina driving insurance ($20 for 5 days), stock up on water and fuel, and head out. On the way up and out of Chile, I kept looking at the road on the horizon and thinking, “Nah, it can’t keep going up there. That can’t possibly be it.”

But it did. It kept going up and up and up, and when it disappeared over the horizon and you got caught up with it, it kept going up some more. Juriques volcano was always there looming over you. BobMobile did admirably, but there were times when I was in second gear grinding up the mountain at 40kph.

Juriques volcano

Juriques volcano

Just about when I got to the Bolivian border checkpoint, I had to pee. So I got out, and just standing up to take a leak had my head spinning like I had just run a mile. Crazy.

Bolivia!

Bolivia!

And then, I had to slow down to avoid running over some guanacos which were congregating right near the Bolivia turnoff.

Bolivian guanacos!

Bolivian guanacos!

The rest of the up and up and up driving continued, with Bolivia and its creepy aquamarine salt lakes standing out starkly against the desolate rust color of the surroundings. I wish I had stopped to get a shot of it, but I didn’t. I was concerned that at that point, if I stopped moving, I wouldn’t be able to get the car going again. It struggled to start moving after my pee break.

Eventually I reached the Flamingo Sanctuary, which is a stinky salt flat with strange green bushy plants growing around it. And there were actually flamingos there. It’s simply amazing what a little water can do, even worthless overly salty water, in a climate that is more like the moon or Mars than earth. At this altitude, I was starting to get a little woozy even sitting in the car. Steering the winding roads was putting me out of breath, and my headache was getting worse. My eyesight started getting funny, it was hard to focus. But I kept going, and so did BobMobile.

Flamingos

Flamingos

Here is a photo of the highest point in the road. Read it and weep. 4829 meters altitude. For you metric-impaired people, that is 15,843 feet, or EXACTLY 3 miles! Yes, it was hard to breathe. I was about to pass out just from taking out my camera to take that photo.

4829 meters = 15843 feet = 3 miles!

4829 meters = 15843 feet = 3 miles!

From there on in it was fairly easy driving. Lots of downhill. It was here, trying to drive off the road to some interesting rock formations, that I found out that BobMobile’s 4-wheel drive is no longer working. It never engaged. I suspect a blown fuse or relay. Will investigate further when I get a good rest in some lower altitudes. It’s not necessary anymore, really, but it would be nice to have it for driving on the beach in Uruguay.

Passing the Argentine border was as straightforward as I could have expected. Bureaucurats had to wrap their brains around a couple of wrenches in the machine– my lack of valid Chilean cedula (it’s still “en tramite” and I have not received it, but I have the papers that said it has been applied for), and the reciprocity sticker in my old passport. The reciprocity sticker is valid until 2022, so it says, but it is in my old passport, which has a different number than my new passport. This part is what made the bureaucrats’ heads explode, but half an hour later, after they took everything into the back room, a few times, and had a big pow-wow with all the head honchos, they finally let me pass without forcing me to contribute to the Kirchner fund. Customs was a joke; the guy made me open my trunk as a formality but didn’t look through anything and the closest he got to the car was a couple of meters.

La Frontera

La Frontera

Heading down through the salt flats was neat, until the road got really crappy, with pot holes and suicidal llamas and guanacos blocking the road.

Como se llama?

Como se llama?

 

That's not snow, it's salt.

That’s not snow, it’s salt.

From the salt flats, it’s up up up up again, to 4170 meters, at a place called El Morado, and then it’s down a crazy winding road of switchbacks. The switchbacks then turn to gravel at the sharp 180-degree turns just to keep you on your toes. With no guard rail, and a dropoff that means certain death. Awesome, epic scenery though. Makes me wish I did this on a motorcycle, but then when I crack the windows, it’s COLD!!!

This is where things start turning green and alive again.

I arrived in Purmamarca at sunset, and found a nice place to stay. Headed down to the town square to see what all the racket was; apparently they are celebrating Carnaval. Lots of partying, handicrafts for sale, but it’s getting dark and I can’t see anything. BUT it’s nice to be back to a more reasonable altitude of 2500 meters where I can pee without passing out from the exertion.

A pair of hotel guests were having a rough time with the desk attendant when I got back from dinner. Seems they had a reservation but all their stuff was stolen at one of the “scenic viewpoints” along the road. They lost all their cash, passports, etc. All they had left was a single credit card, which the desk jockey said they could not use to pay for the reservation (only cash to fill reservations? WTF?) anyhow they didn’t speak any Spanish so I helped translate for them, and got their problem solved. They had to cancel the reservation and then do a new one like they had just shown up randomly. Why this has to be done, well… if you have been reading my blog, this is just another pebble in the road. Welcome to South America.

So far the tally, to arrive in Argentina from Santiago, is…

Tolls: CLP$ 18450 (about US$36)
Fuel: CLP$ 180417 (about US$325)

I miss my Tempurpedic mattress. Already.

The night was uneventful. If a bit chilly. But my nice sleeping bag kept me warm.

I woke up and brushed my teeth without water. Which is another thing I forgot to bring with me. When I was leaving the apartment at the last minute, I looked at the canteens and though, “Nah, I’ll be able to get water on the road.” My reasoning was sound, but my execution was lacking. The first place I found an open gas station with a minimarket, I stocked up on water and caffeinated beverages. In a little town I cannot remember the name of, which had giant rusting tanks of Sulfuric Acid perched precariously alongside the highway.

The alien landscape becomes even more alien. Especially in the morning fog.

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The road to Antofagasta went from coastal beach to mountains rising straight out of the sea, to driving through stuff that looked like it belonged in some sci-fi movie. It went from desert to fogbank to straight up the mountain to driving in the clouds, to back down to bleak desert. At this point in the voyage, there is no longer any scrub. Not a blade of grass, nothing. It is so dead here that even the rocks won’t grow.

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And then there was pea-soup fog.

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Heading up over the Andes again on the way to Antofagasta.

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I made it into Antofagasta around noon, and stopped at the oceanfront McDonalds to have something to eat that was more “real” than water, cookies, and modafinil tablets. This was starting to feel a little bit like a Hunter S. Thompson novel. I must say, though, half a modafinil is an amazing thing. It’s like an attention time warp. You just go like a machine and all of a sudden, you are there. No wonder they give it to fighter pilots to keep them awake.

Antofagasta

Antofagasta

Antofagasta is a neat little town. It reminds me a lot of Punta Del Este, with its coast and towers, and grass. Only it’s in a place that doesn’t suck. It’s supposedly the second-largest city in Chile, by population. I liked it a lot. Modern conveniences, desert climate, coast… It warrants more exploration in the future, I think.

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Well into the desert, there was a dead car in the road with some sad-looking passengers standing around, so I pulled over to see what’s up.  You don’t want to get stuck out here, and nobody else was stopping. They had thrown the tread off their front tire and had no jack to change it. So I let them use mine, which was on its last leg– I had loaned it to my idiot neighbor to change his tire in Santiago, and he had broken it. Brought it back broken, didn’t say anything. Asshole.

Anyways I showed these scrawny Chilenos how to change a tire. They called me The Hulk, since they couldn’t get the lugnuts off the wheel by standing and jumping on the tire iron, and I just spun them off using my hands and lots of foul language. “Hulk! Hulk!” they cheered. We got the tire changed and they were on their way. I was again on mine. Maybe 40km to go to San Pedro de Atacama.

DCIM102GOPRO

Cross the Atacama in a $4000 Suzuki? Yes you can.
BobMobile is going to have lots of Roaming Gnome photos, I think.

As you roll up this road, over the next high zone, some 3200 meters in altitude, you see a big valley stretching out below. Wow, even deader than dead! There’s a sort of weather rock formation that you go up and over again, and coming down the other side you see a nice little green oasis, which is San Pedro. I pulled into town and found a place to spend the night, hose off the dust, get something to eat. Dinner was Pollo a lo pobre, a decent portion with a mountain of fries, which was nice and tasty. Slept like the dead. On an OK mattress. Good full breakfast. Searched for an internet cafe, which I sit at now, typing this. I am heading out, will probably cross the border and spend the night in Purmamarca, Argentina.

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I left Santiago this morning, getting on the road around 8am. Hopped up on Modafinil, I drove for 12 hours until I couldn’t take it anymore. I hadn’t eaten anything except for a couple of empanadas I bought just outside Santiago.

I forgot to bring my fleece sweater and my thermal underwear, but it seems I will not need them as I sit here at night in San Pedro de Atacama writing this, in shorts and a t-shirt. I also forgot to get cash for the tolls along the way. Lots of cash. You’ll see the total for tolls to the Atacama coming in the next post.

I ran out of Chilean pesos just a few booths into my trip, and I searched in vain for a cash machine at any and all of the roadside gas stations. It seems there are no ATM machines anywhere north of Santiago, at least when you are scraping for toll money. Having no pesos, I had to pay the booth guy in US dollars, at a usurious rate of 420:1 (official is 550:1) but what can you do when you are out of money and they don’t take credit cards? Thieves.

And right after that, guess, what? I found my ATM. Fuckers.

I had planned to stop in La Serena and get myself a good hearty lunch, but I got there in 5 hours and was making good time, so I figured what the heck, keep driving. Something will turn up, right?

Wrong.

The road between La Serena and Copiapo was like a race to see how fast you can get stuck behind the next slow, lumbering truck grinding up the mountain at 40kph. Hours and hours of this. It started to take patience I did not think I had, but I made it through. The landscape past La Serena becomes alien. Seriously, you are running through rocky wasteland that looks like where they filmed Alien and Prometheus.

The sun was getting low in the sky, and I decided to pull in to the beach just north of Caldera. I saw a camping sign and it was time. In Chile, you can camp on the beach and nobody bothers you. What a concept! I set up my tent and slept like a log. All I had to eat all day were those empanadas.

DCIM102GOPRO

 

7332km. Unknown number of days. Loads of fuel. Lots of fast food. Lost sleep, car ass, stiff beds and scumbag cops! Sounds like fun? Maybe. But hey, why the hell shouldn’t I?

bigmap

BobQuest will begin in Santiago, Chile, head up north through the Atacama Desert, then across Argentina into Paraguay, down through Argentina and Uruguay, to Punta Del Este. There I shall load a bunch of stuff (which is TOTALLY not worth the expense of this trip) to take back with me to Chile, on a straight shot through Argentina. I shall drive the BobMobile, a sad, bedraggled $4000 Suzuki Vitara that is equipped for zombie apocalypse warfare and survival. Stay tuned for future reports. Same Bob time, Same Bob channel.

More Venezuela tragedy

Posted: February 21, 2014 in Uncategorized

Genesis Carmona, a 22-year-old Venezuelan beauty queen, was just killed by a bullet to her head. Murdered, actually. By government thugs. It’s running on front pages of newspapers everywhere but in the USA.

Genesis-Carmona-3164631

From Francisco Toro:

The Game Changed in Venezuela Last Night – and the International Media Is Asleep At the Switch
Francisco Toro / 13 hours ago
San Cristobal ayer

San Cristobal on Tuesday night

Dear International Editor:

Listen and understand. The game changed in Venezuela last night. What had been a slow-motion unravelling that had stretched out over many years went kinetic all of a sudden.

What we have this morning is no longer the Venezuela story you thought you understood.

Throughout last night, panicked people told their stories of state-sponsored paramilitaries on motorcycles roaming middle class neighborhoods, shooting at people and  storming into apartment buildings, shooting at anyone who seemed like he might be protesting. People continue to be arrested merely for protesting, and a long established local Human Rights NGO makes an urgent plea for an investigation into widespread reports of torture of detainees. There are now dozens of serious human right abuses: National Guardsmen shooting tear gas canisters directly into residential buildings. We have videos of soldiers shooting civilians on the street. And that’s just what came out in real time, over Twitter and YouTube, before any real investigation is carried out. Online media is next, a city of 645,000 inhabitants has been taken off the internet amid mounting repression, and this blog itself has been the object of a Facebook “block” campaign.

What we saw were not “street clashes”, what we saw is a state-hatched offensive to suppress and terrorize its opponents.

After the major crackdown on the streets of major (and minor) Venezuelan cities last night, I expected some kind of response in the major international news outlets this morning. I understand that with an even bigger and more photogenic freakout ongoing in an even more strategically important country, we weren’t going to be front-page-above-the-fold, but I’m staggered this morning to wake up, scan the press and find…

Nothing.

As of 11 a.m. this morning, the New York Times World Section has…nothing.

All across Venezuela, riots are flaring up. Citizens are protesting against unemployment, inflation, and rampant crime. Threats of coups and revolution have been heard. Folks are also worried that US fascists will take over somehow. How this is worse than a Venezuelan fascist like Chavez, I fail to understand.

Why anyone should be surprised by the results of socialism-by-decree bringing unemployment, increased crime, and inflation, I also fail to understand. But folks still seem to act like it’s something new.

There is a surprising lack of media coverage on this whole affair. My suspicion, as I get out my tinfoil hat, is because the US media is controlled by socialists, and they don’t want such blatant proof of socialist failure getting continuing coverage.

What *is* happening there, is that folks are fed up, not knowing why, and are taking to the streets to vent their rage. The government, fearful of being overthrown, is hosing down, beating down, burning down, gassing down, anyone or anything that it remotely views as a threat to its wellbeing.

This fine February, I find myself in need of paying HOA Nazi tribute back on the Death Star. And so, I asked the head HOA Nazi, Gemeinschaftsleiter Frau Darth Murrischegesicht, if she had any modern convenient options to pay. As in modern, convenient things like PayPal, which has been around since 2000. But no, the Frau is still using coal-powered steam engines to crank her rusty brain, and has no use for modern conveniences like PayPal. She does, fortunately, know how to use email.

So instead, to satisfy her bureaucratic urge for paper, and in accordance with all things legal and convenient, I sent her an emailed scan of one of my bank checks, filled out properly.

“I can’t do anything with this,” Frau Murrischegesicht declared.

“Sure you can. According to the U.C.C. codes, articles 3 and 4, this here is a negotiable instrument, cashable at any bank with an IQ higher than dirt. In fact, it contains more information than that required under the definition of a negotiable instrument. For your convenience.”

And so the good Frau went in and tried.

“They looked at me like I had horns, and told me they couldn’t do it,” Gemeinschaftsleiter Murrischegesicht cried.

“Well, uh…” I began, and, thinking better than to confirm the horns theory, told her, “Look, I can write the same information on a cocktail napkin or a sheet of plywood, and they can cash it. They may be resistant to the idea, but it is a legally valid negotiable instrument. Clearly they can see it is a bank check, so all they need to do is put it into their system manually as if the magnetic number strip doesn’t read in their machine. It’s the same. I assure you. Literally and figuratively the same.”

I wondered why I have more knowledge about the US banking system than the bank manager, when I have never worked as one, but alas, those are stories for another day. I must again, instead of doing something productive, spend my time now educating some moron on his job responsibilities and required job knowledge. Essentially doing his job for him and walking him through it.

Ah, but then they decided to exercise their right to refuse to take it on the basis that they reserve the right not to do business with someone they find disagreeable. The law and the proper way be damned! This is suspicious behavior, trying to pay for something from abroad! Why, nobody ever has to do that! It’s un-American! You must be a terrorist! Money launderer!

You are spending 8 hours of your time to launder a whopping $253.44! Wow, maybe if I keep doing it for another 100 years I can make it profitable!

Seriously, the absurd level of fear in the USA is beyond my understanding. And it’s getting in the way of me conducting my day-to-day affairs. Not just fear of retribution from regulators, but on up the bureaucratic food chain to fear of retribution lest someone somewhere be actually declared a terrorist or money launderer and their whole world comes crashing down. So when someone comes in with a 100% legal, 100% valid item that is even a slight bit different than what the mindless automatons working in the bank see every day, they flip the fuck out.

So now, I must find a different way to cash a paltry fucking $253.44 from Chile. Fortunately, Frau Murrischegesicht has uncustomarily waived the late-fees until we figure out some other, more shady, method.

Ahhhhh, summertime in Chile. Time for beach vacations, camping in the mountains, and sitting in long lines for your annual Permiso de Circulacion. This little slip of paper is basically a statement that your car’s shit is in order. To get it, you need a safety/emissions inspection, which takes about 30 minutes and costs about $30, and mandatory “SOAP” insurance, which for the BobMobile, costs about $20 per year. With these slips of paper you take them to your city municipality of choice, pay a fee of another $20 or so, and get them to breed them into new pieces of paper which nobody ever looks at anyways.

Well, that is, if the municipalities have their shit together, which they do not. Normally all of this paper breeding must take place before the end of March. And in normal Chileno fashion, everyone waits until the last minute to do it.

So my first attempt, on the 29th of January, there was no line. Great. However, after sitting at the desk and presenting my papers, the lady told me, “These don’t expire until February.”

Oh no, another desk zombie… So I say, “Yes, I know, but February is in two days, and I am here early. Let’s just get it done, please.”

“Sorry, I can’t. You will have to come back in February,” the zombie replies, as if it is some long-distant holiday months away.

“Seriously?” I ask her.

“Sorry.”

“There is no other way?” I ask her.

“No.”

“Really? Come on now, this has got to be a joke.”

“No.”

Well shit. So, resisting the urge to decapitate her so she cannot bite others and infect them with her zombie plague virus, I collect my papers and go home to mope and rage in solitude. Perhaps she should be boxed up in her coffin and sent to Uruguay where she belongs.

The following week, I go back to the same office, IN FEBRUARY, in an attempt to repeat the process. I wait in line for an hour. Then when it is finally my turn, a new desk zombie tells me that the computer systems aren’t even ready yet, the prices for the 2014 taxes have not even been decided yet, and that I should come back next week.

So I hold down my lid so it doesn’t flip, and ask the guy plainly, “Why do I even bother to be responsible?”

He shrugs.

“Seriously. You demand that we have all of our things in order, by a set deadline, and yet you fail on your end completely, making our effort worthless and effectively turning the responsible people of Chile into Argentines,” to which all activity in the office came to a screeching halt, all heads turned, and everyone started listening.

“This is a disaster,” I continued, “I have wasted hours of my time, not just this once, but this is the second time I have been here and you have been unprepared to do your jobs. Why do you even open this office if you cannot process anything here?” to which he had no answer. Deer in headlights. “Why don’t you have a sign out front?” no answer. “Why are you even here?” no answer.

So I left. It’s cheaper for me at this point to do it Argentino, scoff at the regulations, and just let the fines accumulate and deal with them when the government removes head from ass. If I ever deal with them.

Then there’s the new parking drama.

My deal with parking where I keep my car is that I pay the gastos comunes for the owner of the space, and he lets me park there (he has no car). I inherited the space from the seller of the car, when he left Chile to go back to Canada. I simply picked up where he left off. It’s convenient, close to my apartment, cheaper than any other available spaces downtown, and it works out fine. Well, it *has* until recently.

A few days ago there was a big whoop-de-doo when the gringo with the red jeep finally showed up to drive his car, having not been seen for a couple of months. Normally this would not have been a problem, seeing as how when I first took over the space there was a big whoop-de-doo concerning whether or not I would keep it, because despite notifying EVERYONE INVOLVED, nobody seemed to retain this information, and they thought I would be leaving and had already lined up another renter for the space. And, another “normally this would not have been a problem” details: they had my email address from that point forward, written down, so that they could contact me if anything should come into question.

“Dios mio, we’re glad we found you!” they exclaimed, “Your payments on the parking space are in arrears.”

Hmm, I think to myself, I don’t think so, but I’ll check when I get home. “Give me a list of the missed payments and I’ll have a look.”

So they do, and I do, and I find that like a responsible gringo, I have paid all the time, on time, never missed a beat, and I have receipts of all the transactions going back an entire year and then some. So I email said pile of receipts to the administrador.

This does not go over well, because apparently in addition to claiming the guy’s gastos comunes weren’t paid on time, they shut off his power and water a couple of times thinking that the payments were in arrears. Which is BS, because every time I sent the money, via the bank’s website, it sent an email not only to myself, but to the administrador.

So they claim they had no way of contacting me, yet they have several of those past email receipts with my email on them. And my email which I gave them a year ago during the first big whoop-de-doo. Anyways, long story short, they have to eat crow and fix their shitty accounting. HOWEVER–

Then I received emails from both the administrador and the apartment owner in stern language talking about how every payment must be on time and yadda yadda yadda. When I have proven without argument that it was never my fault. So I sent them both a reply explaining (for the second time) that I had never missed a beat, never had to be asked, and if there was any problem it was because of poor accounting, poor communication, and poor office organization in general, clarifying further points that any and all multas (fines) for late payment be refunded to those accused, and that my intent was to keep the parking space for eternity, until otherwise stated.

I then received a nice email from the owner, in agreement and accord, for he now knew the game, and an email from the administrador asking for calmer heads to prevail. Obviously the administrador was attempting to save face by blaming it all on the gringo, and had no idea he was fluent in Spanish and could dish it out as well as they could.

On the 5th of February (yes, two days ago; I am starting to become South American. I’ll get to it mañana…) a fire in the Iron Mountain archive building killed 9 firemen and first responders, and injured 7 more. Despite the unnecessary loss of life, this is interesting in several ways.

First, the building had an advanced fire suppression system, built to be able to not only quench fires but keep documents intact. In addition to multiple other methods to prevent and stop fires. Seeing as it *was* an important document archive.

Secondly, this particular archive housed quite a lot of bank documents.

Thirdly, the fire happened at the announcement of new foreign exchange regulations, in which banks are now required to limit FX positions to 30% of their assets, and FX futures to 10%.

So, how convenient that the destruction of official bank balance data (at least *this* copy) coincides with new bank compliance which coincides with Argentina being called out on fudging its Forex numbers, and having the honesty of its bank reserves questioned.

“Well, we would show you, but oops, it all caught fire last night!”

More info here and here.

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